Acapulco

Introduction to Acapulco

You've got to give Acapulco credit for staying power. After falling out of favor with the international jet set, this not-so-hot spot is heating up again. Its high-rise hotels are being restored to their former grandeur, its restaurants are getting noticed by the critics, its famous nightlife scene is jumping again, and its pollution-plagued beaches have been given a thorough scrubbing. Worlds more sophisticated than Cancún, Acapulco draws a wide range of people, though you're bound to find more party animals than fresh-faced families here. But most people who make their way to this undeniably beautiful bay spend their days lying around on colorful towels or napping in hammocks, a fruit-flavored drink nearby. For those who can rouse themselves to do some sightseeing, the marvelously preserved city of Taxco, 170 miles to the north, beckons.

When to Go to Acapulco
Hot and humid weather prevails in Acapulco, with temperatures hovering at 30°C (80°F) year-round and sunshine guaranteed virtually every day. During the rainy season, June through October, the late afternoon and nights often bring welcome, cooling showers. Anytime of the year is good for a visit, but perhaps the best is in October or November, right after the rainy season. The crowds are small, the prices reasonable, and the hills green from summer rains. As winter and spring roll around, most of the vegetation turns brown. Of course, watching a summer squall over the Pacific from your hotel balcony, cold beverage in hand, is a singular Mexico experience.

Snowbirds from the United States and Canada show up all winter, but the busiest times are Christmas week, Easter week, and during July and August, when the Mexican nationals are on vacation. Most hotels are booked solid during these times, so try to make reservations at least three months in advance. During Christmas week, prices rise 30%-60% above those in low season.

A Simple Itinerary
Spend the morning of your first day sunning on the beach, perhaps Playa Caleta or Playa Revolcadero. In the afternoon do a little shopping on the Costera and enjoy an evening cocktail in one of the many bars lining the strip. Have dinner in a restaurant overlooking the bay in Acapulco Diamante. If you want to party afterward, head back to Costera for the clubs. The next day, visit Old Acapulco and the Fuerte de San Diego in the morning. In the afternoon visit the aquarium or sign on for some parasailing or waterskiing. In the evening be sure to see the cliff divers at La Quebrada.

On your third day, take a cab or bus to Pie de la Cuesta, a strip of beach west of downtown. Stay long enough to see Acapulco's most brilliant sunset before heading back to town for dinner. Reserve another day for a trip to the beautiful mountain town of Taxco, a 3.5-hour drive away, where you can take in a museum and shop for jewelry from some of the world's finest silversmiths.

Getting Oriented

The city of Acapulco is on the Pacific coast 433 km (268 mi) south of Mexico City. Warm water, nearly constant sunshine, and balmy year-round temperatures let you plan your day around the beach -- whether you want to lounge in a hammock or go snorkeling, parasailing, fishing, or water-skiing. Attractions to lure you away from the beach include crafts markets, cultural institutions, and the amazing cliff divers at La Quebrada.

Acapulco Bay
Acapulco is the world's largest U-shape outdoor amphitheater, and the Bahía de Acapulco is center stage. The inhabitants in the surrounding hills and beach resorts can admire the action of watercraft and people in the harbor. While the daytime performance is one of fun in the sun, the late-night show features twinkling lights reflected in the water and salsa music drifting on the breeze.

Costera
The heartbeat of Acapulco, Costera pulses with activity. There is nothing quaint or serene about this busy 7-km (4.5-mi) stretch of commercial bayfront property along Avenida Costera Miguel Alemán. The thoroughfare is lined with resorts, shops, markets, banks, discos - even a park and a golf course. And within walking distance are the bay's golden beaches. You can land here and never find the need to leave, unless, of course, you crave peace and quiet.

Old Acapulco
Your trip to Acapulco would be incomplete without a few hours spent exploring the old section. The Zócalo (town plaza) is filled with majestic banyan and rubber trees, providing shade for a wide cast of characters. The surrounding streets are crowded with small businesses and the elusive soul of the city. The beaches are favored by local families and panga fishermen, now sharing the bay with gigantic cruise ships. The magnificient Fuerte de San Diego is nearby, as is La Quebrada, where otherwise sane men dive more than 30 meters (100 feet) into the surging and rocky Pacific.

Acapulco Diamante
As you head east from Acapulco Bay you enter Acapulco Diamante, which includes the smaller bay of Puerto Marqués and the long wide beaches of Revolcadero. This is where new developments -- mostly large, opulent resorts -- crop up. Above, the hillside neighborhoods overlooking the water host many of Mexico's most spectacular private villas. If you like a little breathing room and miles of breezy beach-walking, this is the place for you.

Acapulco Beaches

In the past few years city officials made a great effort to clean up the Bahía de Acapulco, and maintaining it is a priority. Although vending on the beach has been outlawed, you'll probably still be approached by souvenir hawkers. In Acapulco Bay watch for a strong shore break that can knock you off your feet in knee-deep water. It is wise to observe the waves for a few minutes before entering the water.

Barra Vieja
A pleasant drive 27 km (17 mi) east of Acapulco, between Laguna de Tres Palos and the Pacific, brings you to this long stretch of uncrowded beach. Most people make the trip for the solitude and to feast on pescado à la talla (red snapper marinated in spices and grilled over hot coals) available at all the seaside outdoor restaurants. The locals flock here on weekends.

Playa Caleta
On the southern peninsula in Old Acapulco, this beach and smaller Playa Caletilla (Little Caleta) to the south once rivaled La Quebrada as the main tourist area, and were very popular with the early Hollywood crowd. Today their snug little bays and calm waters make them a favorite with Mexican families. Caleta has the Magico Mundo Marino entertainment center for children and a large seafood restaurant. Caletilla has many small family-run restaurants serving good, cheap food. On both beaches vendors sell everything from seashells to peeled mangos; boats depart from both to Isla de Roqueta. Spend a day here if you can to get a true taste of Mexico.

Playa Condesa
Referred to as "the strip," this stretch of sand facing the middle of Bahía de Acapulco has more than its share of visitors, especially singles. It's lined with lively restaurants and rocking bars.

Playa Hornitos
Running from the Avalon Excalibur west to Las Hamacas, Hornitos (Little Hornos) and adjacent Playa Hornos are shoulder-to-shoulder with locals and visitors on weekends. Graceful palms shade the sand, and there are scads of casual eateries on the beach, especially on Playa Hornos. A slice of Playa Hornos and Playa Hornitos marks the beginning of the hotel zone to the east. The swimming is generally very safe in this area.

Playa Icacos
Stretching from the naval base to El Presidente hotel, away from the famous strip, this beach is less populated than others on the Costera. The morning surf is especially calm.

Pie de la Cuesta
You need a car or cab to reach this relatively unpopulated spot about a 25-minute drive west of downtown. Simple, thatched-roof restaurants and small, rustic inns border the wide beach, with straw palapas providing shade. What attracts people to Pie de la Cuesta, besides the long expanse of beach and spectacular sunsets, is beautiful Laguna Coyuca, a favorite spot for waterskiing, freshwater fishing, and boat rides. Boats ferry you to La Laguna restaurant, where, some people claim, the pescado à la talla is even better than at Barra Vieja.

Playa Puerto Marqués
Tucked below the airport highway, this protected strand is popular with Mexican tourists, so it tends to get crowded on weekends. Beach shacks here sell fresh fish, and vendors sell silver, blankets, beach coverups, and other wares.

Playa Revolcadero
This wide, sprawling beach fronts the Fairmont Pierre Marqués and Fairmont Acapulco Princess hotels. People come here to surf and ride horses. The water is shallow, but the waves can be rough, and the rip current can be strong, so be careful while swimming.

Caution. Acapulco Bay is fairly well protected from the rough Pacific surf, but steep offshore drop-offs can produce waves large enough to knock you off your feet. Pay attention to the wave pattern before you go in. If you are not a strong swimmer, stay close to shore and other people. Some beaches, mostly those outside the bay such as Revolcadero and Pie de la Cuesta, have a strong surf and some have a rip current, so be careful. If you get caught in a rip current, which makes it hard to swim to shore, swim parallel to the sand until you escape the the rip, then swim in. Above all, don't panic.

A Taste of Acapulco
Most people come to Acapulco for the sun, but dining comes in a close second. You can sample cuisines from around the world or feast on succulent classics from all parts of Mexico. Fresh seafood is the star on many menus, as local fishermen supply freshly caught fish every day. Top-quality beef from the Mexican states of Sonora and Chihuahua is also popular.

The tone and settings of Acapulco restaurants are as varied as the cuisine. You can have an utterly romantic meal high in the hills, with unparalleled views of the bay, or you can dine in a casual beachside restaurant. Night owls coming out of the clubs can even find a plate of flavorful tacos for less than $2 right before sunrise.

Dining in Old Acapulco will put you in contact with the gracious locals, who are savvy about where to find the best food. You can plan a half-day outing to rustic Barra Vieja east of Acapulco for lunch and take a boat through the mangroves to one of many dining huts, where fish is grilled over hot coals. You can also head to Pie de la Cuesta, a laid-back, somewhat isolated area west of downtown. Here you can have lunch at a seaside eatery, go horseback riding, and then linger on the beach for a spectacular sunset.

Acapulco Hotels and Resorts