Campeche

Introduction to Campeche

Campeche, the capital of the state of the same name, is the most thoroughly restored colonial city in Mexico. It's so well restored that, in some places, you can imagine that you've traveled back in time. The facades of all the houses in the old part of town have been repaired and painted, all electrical and telephone cables have been routed underground, and the streets have been paved to look cobbled. Several Mexican movie companies have taken advantage of the restoration to shoot period films here.

Despite its beauty, not many tourists come to Campeche. Those who do tend to be either on their way to the ruins at Palenque (see chapter 8) or the Río Bec region (see chapter 6), or the kind of travelers who are accidental wanderers rather than purposeful sightseers. A couple of things do need to be said: Campeche is not geared to foreign tourism the way Mérida is, so expect less in the way of English translations and such at museums and other sights. Campeche also is a sleepy town with little nightlife.

Calakmul is a large and important site, with the tallest pyramid in the Yucatán peninsula, and if you're going that far, you must stop at Balamkú. From the Campeche side you can get information and contract a tour with one of several tour operators. You might talk with the travel agency at the Hotel Del Mar and arrange an overnight trip with accommodations at its eco-village at Chicanná.

The federal highway that leads to these sights crosses through the Río Bec region and eventually arrives at Chetumal, on Yucatán's southern Caribbean coast. From there you can head up the coast and complete a loop of the peninsula.

Campeche has an interesting history. The first contact between white men and natives occurred in 1517, when Francisco de Córdoba landed here while exploring the coast. Supposedly, it was the first place on the mainland where a Mass was celebrated. Francisco de Montejo the Elder established a settlement here in 1531, but the Indians soon expelled the Spaniards. Finally, Montejo the Younger refounded it in 1540.

For the next century, pirates repeatedly harassed the city. The list of pirates who have attacked Campeche reads like a whos who of pirating. On one occasion, several outfits joined forces under the famous Dutch pirate Peg Leg (who most likely was the inspiration for the many fictional one-legged sailors) and managed to capture the city. The Campechanos grew tired of playing host to pirate parties and erected walls around the city, showing as much industry then as they now show in renovating their historic district. The walls had a number of baluartes (bastions) at critical locations. For added security, they constructed two forts, complete with moats and drawbridges, on the hills flanking the city. There were four gates to the city, and the two main ones are still intact: the Puerta de Mar (Sea Gate) and the Puerta de Tierra (Land Gate). The pirates never cared to return, but, in Mexico's stormy political history, the city did withstand a couple of sieges by different armies. Eventually, in the early 1900s, the wall around the city was razed, but the bastions and main gates were left intact, as were the two hilltop fortresses. Most of the bastions and both forts now house museums.

What to See and Do in Campeche City

Campeche City, known as the "hidden treasure of the Yucatan", blends Spanish influences with the rich history and culture of the Mayan people, giving travelers an intriguing look at colonial architecture and Mayan traditions.

Today the city of 250,000 has been carefully restored and its historic downtown is ideal for exploring with its historic hotels, museums, architectural character, churches and forts. The 3 mile long "malecon" (boardwalk) along the Gulf coast highlights a beautiful avenue lined with palm trees, gardens and monuments.

Historic Center (Main Plaza)
The historical center of Campeche City was built for the people of the community, but was used by the town elite such as Spanish royalty and political authorities for parties and ceremonies. In addition to the Cathedral, the buildings surrounding the square, or Zocalo as it's sometimes referred to, were used for government offices and houses of the most affluent.

Today it is used as the main business center as well as cultural and tourist activities. The former City Hall was recently restored and now serves as Campeche's Library. Los Portales, is another structure with beautifully arched passageways and now home to a restaurant and shops.

The Main Plaza is a great starting point as here you will find tourism offices which offer tours as well as hotel and restaurant information.

Campeche Trolley: In the Main Square visitors can take a tour of the city daily at 9:00am, 6pm and 8 pm. The trolley holds 40 passengers and departs from Parque Principal (Main Plaza) where you may also buy tickets. The guided tour visits the Historic Center as well the boardwalk and the neighborhoods of San Francisco and San Roman. Sometimes the tour is given by a bilingual guide, but even if you don't understand Spanish well, it's a great way to see the city and its beautiful charm.

Cathedral
Located in the Main Square, one of the most beautiful attractions is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Conception. It is one of the oldest Christian churches on the Yucatan Peninsula and was constructed between 1540 and 1705.

Musical Fountains
Located next to the Library in the World Patrimony Park, each evening at 7, 8 and 9pm one can enjoy a water fountain show synchronized with music and lights.

Land Gate (Puerta de Tierra)
The original entrance to the city, here visitors experience how the forts and walls protected the city. For 10 pesos (about $1 US) you can take a tour on top of the stone walls offering a nice view of the city. Below is a museum with pictures, letters, guns and ammunition of the period.

Sound and Light Show: Each Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday evening at 8:30 visitors can go back in time with a show of lights, music and drama. The 30-minute show tells of the romance and tragedy of the Indians, pirates and Spaniards. Whether it is historically accurate or not, for $3 US admission, it is worth attending.

Casa #6
Located in the Main Square, House #6 is a fully-furnished replica of a typical colonial style house. The entrance is free and has a restaurant and a bookstore and is also used as an information center.

Fort San Jose
Located to the north of the city, San Jose el Alto is one of two forts built to protect the city, complete with cannons and rifle slits. The fort is also home to the Ships and Weapons Museum displaying weapons and boats and items traded during the pirate era. Along the way you will see an impressive statue of Benito Juarez on the hilltop overlooking the city. Tuesdays - Sundays.

Fort San Miguel
Located 2.5 kms southwest of town, this 18th-century fort includes a moat and a drawbridge. General Santa Ana captured it when he attacked Campeche City in 1842. Inside is Campeche's archaeological museum, also known as the Mayan Culture Museum. It contains ceramics and jade masks found at nearby archaeological sites and rooms depicting Maya astrology, war and their Gods.

To get to the fort, drive south along the coastal road towards the fishing village of Lerma until you reach the large statue of a man with a raised arm called the Resurgence of Campeche and then follow the signs. Tuesdays - Sundays.

Boardwalk (Malecon)
Inaugurated in 2000, this 3.5 km road along the waterfront is a beautiful place for families to spend time together, to see the sunset and enjoy the tranquility of the Gulf of Mexico. There are driving roads as well as biking and walking lanes and areas to sit and play.

More Campeche Destinations

Ciudad del Carmen
Ciudad del Carmen, known as the La Perla del Golfo (the Pearl of the Gulf), is a coastal city located on the southwest corner of the state of Campeche. It was founded during pre-Hispanic times and was once an important exchange port between the Aztecs and Mayans.

After the Spanish inquisition in the 1800’s, Campeche City became the main port of trade for the Spanish and Ciudad del Carmen was occupied by pirates and used as an area to repair ships and the planning of attacks.

Today the city holds the main shrimp and fishing port of the state and was a quiet fishing village until the 1970s when oil was discovered in the Bay of Campeche, where lies the second most productive oil field in the world. Since this time the city has grown and developed substantially. Today you will find hotel chains, shopping malls, Walmart and fast food restaurants. There is also an international airport here with daily flights to and from Houston, TX.

It is located 209 kms from Campeche City along Federal Highway 180 following the coastline of the Gulf of Mexico. It's a beautiful drive along the coast and there are many beaches with little or no development.

Champoton
Located on the Gulf of Mexico in between Campeche City and Ciudad del Carmen along Federal Highway 180. It's approximately 65 kms south of Campeche City where the small Champoton river meets the Gulf of Mexico.

Champoton's colonial origins date back to 1540 when the Mayans put up a strong battle against the Spaniards preventing them from landing. Since then this area has been known as the "Bay of the Bad Fight".

Today, Champoton has a population of about 50,000 and a large boating pier where fishing boats and yachts tie up. Known for its fresh seafood, it draws visitors daily to sample fresh catches of shrimp, squid, swordfish and other seafood caught each morning.

Lerma
Lerma is a small fishing village located 8 kms south of Campeche City along Federal Highway 180. Here you will find a quaint village with small family-owned restaurants and delicious catches of the day.

Beaches
Campeche State has over 525 kms of coastline with many beautiful beaches with little or no development. The drive along Federal Highway 180 from Campeche City to Ciudad del Carmen follows the gulf coast and is well worth the drive in itself. Here you will find beaches such as Playa Bonita, SeybaPlaya, Playa del Norte, Playa Caracol and Playa Bahamitas.

Campeche Hotels and Resorts