Cancun

Introduction to Cancun

Mexico's calling card to the world, Cancun perfectly showcases both the country's breathtaking natural beauty and the depth of its 1,000-year history. Simply stated, Cancun is the reason most people travel to Mexico. The sheer number of travelers underscores Cancun's magnetic appeal, with almost three million people visiting this enticing beach resort annually - most of them on their first trip to the country. The reasons for this are both numerous and obvious.

Cancun offers an unrivaled combination of high-quality accommodations, dreamy beaches, easy air access, and a wide diversity of shopping, dining, nightlife, and nearby activities -- most of them exceptional values. There is also the lure of ancient cultures evident in all directions and a number of ecologically oriented theme parks.

No doubt about it -- Cancun embodies Caribbean splendor, with translucent turquoise waters and powdery white-sand beaches, coupled with coastal areas of great natural beauty. But Cancun is also a modern megaresort. Even a traveler feeling apprehensive about visiting foreign soil will feel completely at ease here. English is spoken, dollars are accepted, roads are well paved, and lawns are manicured. Malls are the mode for shopping and dining, and you could swear that some hotels are larger than a small town. Travelers feel comfortable in Cancun. You do not need to spend a day getting your bearings, because you immediately see familiar names for dining, shopping, nightclubbing, and sleeping.

You may have heard that in 1974 a team of Mexican government computer analysts picked Cancun for tourism development for its ideal mix of elements to attract travelers -- and they were right on. It's actually an island, a 24km (14-mile) sliver of land connected to the mainland by two bridges and separated from it by the expansive Nichupté lagoon. (Cancun means "golden snake" in Mayan.)

In addition to attractions of its own, Cancun is a convenient distance from the more traditional resorts of Isla Mujeres and from the coastal zone now known as the Riviera Maya -- extending down from Cancun, through Playa del Carmen, to the Maya ruins at Tulum, Cozumel, Chichén Itzá, and Cobá. All are within day-trip distance.

You will run out of vacation days before you run out of things to do in Cancun. Snorkeling, jet-skiing, jungle tours, and visits to ancient Maya ruins and modern ecological theme parks are among the most popular diversions. There are a dozen malls with name-brand and duty-free shops (with European goods at prices better than in the U.S.), and more than 350 restaurants and nightclubs. The 24,000-plus hotel rooms in the area offer something for every taste and every budget.

Cancun's luxury hotels have pools so spectacular that you may find it tempting to remain poolside, but don't. Set aside some time to simply gaze into the ocean and wriggle your toes in the fine, brilliantly white sand. It is, after all, what put Cancun on the map.

Cancun is a great place to experience 21st-century Mexico. There isn't much that is "quaint" or "historical" in this distinctively modern city; the people living here have eagerly embraced all the accoutrements of urban middle-class life, but many of them work in the much more posh Zona Hotelera, the barrier island where Cancun's most popular resorts are located.

Boulevard Kukulcán is the main drag in the Zona Hotelera, and because the island is so narrow -- less than 1 km (½ mi) wide -- you can see both the Caribbean and the lagoons from either side of it. Regularly placed kilometer markers alongside Boulevard Kukulcán indicate where you are. The first marker (Km 1) is near downtown on the mainland; Km 20 lies at the south end of the Zone at Punta Nizuc. The area in between consists entirely of hotels, restaurants, shopping complexes, marinas, and time-share condominiums.

It's not the sort of place you can get to know by walking, although there is a bicycle-walking path that starts downtown at the beginning of the Zona Hotelera and continues through to Punta Nizuc. The beginning of the path parallels a grassy strip of Boulevard Kukulcan decorated with reproductions of ancient Mexican art, including the Aztec calendar stone, a giant Olmec head, the Atlantids of Tula, and a Maya Chacmool (reclining rain god).

South of Punta Cancun, Boulevard Kukulcan becomes a busy road, difficult to cross on foot. It's also punctuated by steeply inclined driveways that turn into the hotels, most of which are set at least 100 yards from the road. The lagoon side of the boulevard consists of scrubby stretches of land alternating with marinas, shopping centers, and restaurants.

When you first visit El Centro, the downtown layout might not be self-evident. It is not based on a grid but rather on a circular pattern. The whole city is divided into districts called Super Manzanas (abbreviated Sm in this book), each with its own central square or park. The main streets curve around the manzanas, and the smaller neighborhood streets curl around the parks in horseshoe shapes. Avenida Tulum is the main street -- actually a four-lane road with two northbound and two southbound lanes. The inner north and south lanes, separated by a meridian of grass, are the express lanes.

Avenidas Bonampak and Yaxchilán are the other two major north-south streets that parallel Tulum. The three major east-west streets are Avenidas Cobá, Uxmal, and Chichén. They are marked along Tulum by huge traffic circles, each set with a piece of sculpture.

When to Go to Cancun

High season for Cancun starts at the end of November and lasts until the first week in April. Between December 15th and January 5th, however, hotel prices are at their highest -- and may rise as much as 30%-50% above regular rates. If you plan to visit during Christmas, spring break or Easter, you should book at least three months in advance.

The sun shines an average of 253 days a year in Cancun. The months between December and April have nearly perfect weather; temperatures hover at around 84°F during the day and 64°F at night. May through September are much hotter and more humid; the temperatures can reach upwards of 97°F.

The rainy season starts mid-September and lasts until mid-November -- which means afternoon downpours that can last anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours. The streets of El Centro often get flooded during these storms, and traffic can grind to a halt. During these months there are also occasional tropical storms, with high winds and rain that may last several days.

Top 5 Reasons to Go

1. Dancing the night away to salsa, mariachi, reggae, jazz, or hip-hop at one of the Zona Hotelera's many nightclubs.

2. Watching the parade of gorgeous suntans on the white sands of Playa Langosta.

3. Getting wild on the water: renting a Jet-ski, windsurfer, or kayak and skimming across Laguna Nichupté.

4. Browsing for Mexican crafts at the colorful stalls of Mercado Veintiocho.

5. Indulging in local flavor with dishes like poc chuc and drinks like tamarind margaritas.

Best Cancun Beaches

Cancun Island is one long continuous beach. By law the entire coast of Mexico is federal property and open to the public. In reality, security guards discourage locals from using the beaches outside hotels. Some all-inclusives distribute neon wristbands to guests; those without a wristband aren't actually prohibited from being on the beach -- just from entering or exiting via the hotel. Everyone is welcome to walk along the beach, as long as you get on or off from one of the public points. Although these points are often miles apart, one way around the situation is to find a hotel open to the public, go into the lobby bar for a drink or snack, and afterward go for a swim along the beach. All of the beaches can also be reached by public transportation; just let the driver know where you are headed.

Most hotel beaches have lifeguards, but, as with all ocean swimming, use common sense -- even the calmest-looking waters can have currents and riptides. Overall, the beaches on the windward stretch of the island -- those facing the Bahía de Mujeres -- are best for swimming; farther out, the undertow can be tricky. Don't swim when the red or black danger flags fly; yellow flags indicate that you should proceed with caution, and green or blue flags mean the waters are calm.

Playa las Perlas is the first beach on the drive heading east from El Centro along Boulevard Kukulcán. It's a relatively small beach on the protected waters of the Bahía de Mujeres, and is popular with locals. There aren't many public facilities here, and most of the water-sports activities are available only to those staying at the nearby resorts such as Club las Perlas or the Blue Bay Getaway.

At Km 4 on Boulevard Kukulcán, Playa Linda is where the ocean meets the fresh water of Laguna Nichupté to create the Nichupté Channel. There's lots of boat activity along the channel, and the ferry to Isla Mujeres leaves from the adjoining Embarcadero marina, so the area isn't safe for swimming -- although it's a great place to people-watch.

Small, placid Playa Langosta, which starts at Boulevard Kukulcán's Km 4, has calm waters that make it an excellent place for a swim, although it has no public facilities. It's usually filled with tourists and vacationing spring-breakers since it's close to many of the large all-inclusive hotels. Its safe waters and gentle waves make it a popular beach with families as well.

Playa Tortugas, the last "real" beach along the east-west stretch of the Zona Hotelera, has lots of hotels with lots of sand in between. There are restaurants, changing areas, and restrooms at either end of the beach (it stretches between about Km 6 and Km 8 on Boulevard Kukulcán). The swimming is excellent, and many people come here to sail, snorkel, kayak, paraglide, and use Wave Runners.

Playa Caracol, the outermost beach in the Zona Hotelera, is a beach only in name. The whole area has been eaten up by development -- in particular the monstrous Xcaret bus station and office complex. This beach is also hindered by the rocks that jut out from the water marking the beginning of Punta Cancun, where Boulevard Kukulcán turns south. There are several hotels along this beach and a few sports rental outfits, but almost no one uses this beach for swimming.

Heading down from Punta Cancun onto the long, southerly stretch of the island, Playa Chacmool is the first beach on the Caribbean's open waters. It's close to several shopping centers and the party zone, so there are plenty of restaurants nearby. The shallow clear water makes it tempting to walk far out into the ocean, but be careful -- there's a strong current and undertow.

Playa Marlin, at Km 13 along Boulevard Kukulcán, is in the heart of the Zona Hotelera and accessible via area resorts (access is easiest at Occidental Caribbean Village). It's a seductive beach with turquoise waters and silky sands, but like most beaches facing the Caribbean, the waves are strong and the currents are dangerous. There aren't any public facilities.

Playa Ballenas starts off with some rather large rocks at about Km 14 on Boulevard Kukulcán, but it widens shortly afterward and extends down for another breathtaking -- and sandy -- 3 km (5 mi). The wind here is strong, making the surf rough, and several hotels have put up ropes and buoys to help swimmers make their way safely in and out of the water. Access is via one of the hotels, such as Le Meridien or JW Marriott.

Playa Delfines is the final beach, at Km 20 where Boulevard Kukulcán curves into a hill. There's an incredible lookout over the ocean; on a clear day you can see at least four shades of blue in the water, though swimming is treacherous unless one of the green flags is posted. Though this beach is starting to become popular with the gay and surfing crowds, there are usually few people here -- so if you like solitary sunbathing, this is the place for you. South of the El Rey ruins (which are across the street from the water) the beach becomes very narrow and rocky, disappearing altogether by the time you reach the Westin Regina.

Tequila and Chile Peppers

Tequila is the national drink of Mexico, and chances are you will be offered a glass sooner or later. There are hundreds of tequilas available, ranging from the super-smooth to the pretty harsh varieties. To be considered authentic, tequila must come from the state of Jalisco and have a seal of certification. There are basically three types, all of which are made from the blue agave plant. Blanco (white) or plata (silver) tequila is fresh from the still and retains most of the flavor of the agave plant.

Sometimes a caramel coloring is added to this tequila and then it is known as joven (young). Reposado (rested) is tequila that has been aged in a white oak cask anywhere between two months and a year. It has a mellow flavor and pale color. Añejo (aged) tequila has been aged in an oak cask for between one and four years. The aging process allows it to take on an amber color and a smooth taste. Muy añejo (very aged) refers to tequila aged between three to five years. Some companies also refer to this type as reserva; it is considered the highest quality caliber of tequila.

Liquor made from any other kind of agave plant is known as mezcal. It, too, comes in varying degrees of smoothness.

The traditional method many people use for drinking tequila -- licking salt off the backs of their hands, then drinking, then sucking on lime wedges -- is not the Mexican way. Most Mexicans prefer to sip añejo tequila in a brandy snifter so the aroma can be savored. Blanco and reposado are usually served with sangrita, which is a mix of tomato and orange juice with salt and lime.

All tequilas should be enjoyed at room temperature and are always sipped, even when put into the small shot glasses known as cabalitos. It's considered crass to chug your tequila unless you are drinking a harsh joven -- in which case the idea is to get it down as quickly as possible. Most of the places offering all-you-can-drink menus will be serving joven -- which can leave you with a wicked hangover.

Reposado is the favored tequila in margaritas because it is somewhat smooth, but many places do use joven combined with a premixed lime juice and lots of salt and crushed ice to mask the harshness. Again, drinking these can make you feel a little rough the morning after. An authentic margarita will have minimal ice, freshly squeezed lime juice, and just a hint of salt around the rim that should be tasted with each sip to enhance the flavor of the drink.

Before tasting anything with chiles be sure to ask ¿Es muy picante? (Is it very hot?) The answer is often yes, so start off with small quantities. The mildest chiles are the pimiento green or red peppers. Next up in the heat scale are poblano chiles, which are mildly spicy. These are usually stuffed with cheese and served as poblanos rellenos. The serrano chile is used in many restaurant's salsas, and can be very hot.

But slender, green jalapeño chiles, often used in sauces, are even hotter. Another steaming-hot chile is the chipotle, which has a smoky flavor -- but which still packs less of a punch than the habanero chile, used in many Yucatecan dishes. The deadliest of all is the rubio (white) chile -- most gringos simply can't handle it.

Since a chile's heat comes not from the actual pepper itself, but from the oil of the seeds inside, when your mouth is on fire it's best to eat a piece of bread or tortilla to soak up the oil. Salt also helps. Vast quantities of beer or tequila will only spread the flame -- although after a while, you may not care or notice.

Cancun Hotels and Resorts